Greece Without Tourists: Athens - Mykonos - Santorini
Our 8 days of “working from home” in Greece began in the historic capitol: Athens.
Day 1 - Athens
We hopped on a plane out of Zagreb early Saturday morning and hit the ground running as soon as we landed. I booked our Acropolis Guided Tour for early afternoon (this is ill-advised), so we had just enough time to drop our bags at the hotel and grab a quick lunch. Thankfully, Luke’s colleagues from Athens sent us with a list of their favorite restaurants, rooftop views and cocktail bars so we were ready to power through! Lunch was Greek salads, kebabs and local beers at O Thanasis (a meal that was repeated excessively over the week).
Acropolis Guided Tour
We met our wonderful guide at the Fresko Yogurt Bar to grab a coffee, introduce ourselves, and set off on our walk through Greek history. What’s wild is we were the only ones on the tour. On a Saturday. In July. Our guide said that on the same day 1 year prior, 4 July 2019, there were 20,000 people who visited the Acropolis. The day we visited there were 200 people. He described the feeling in such a beautiful way: “It is a hard time to not have work, but this is how I would love for everyone to see it. You and I are lucky. This is a once in a lifetime (hopefully) experience to tour my favorite historical site with no one else.” Magic. Our only regret was the time of day…Pro tip: book your tour for the morning to avoid completely sweating through your clothes.
Plaka Neighborhood
Grabbed a late afternoon snack and wine at Argyropoulos to sit in the sun next to the ruins of the Roman Agora. The reviews on Google did not represent our experience well. The owner served us and was incredibly friendly, and the atmosphere was such a dream! I will say that this area is definitely touristy and a little overpriced because of the location, so if you stop somewhere make sure the vibe is worth it.
In general, the Plaka neighborhood is filled with lovely terraces perfect for relaxing with wine, enjoying traditional Greek music, and making friends with locals (pictured below).
Antiofika
This little scenic neighborhood is a must visit in Athens! Get lost in the narrow alleyways and take all the photos.
Rooftop Drinks
Thissio View: If you’re looking for a drink spot with an amazing view of the Acropolis, this is the place. Because of the location, it is overpriced and not the best service, but it is perfect for a drink and a photo while the sun goes down. Other rooftop bars that were recommended, but closed while we were there, are Thea Terrace and Bios.
After our sunset drink, we walked down the main road of Thissio, lined with jewelry stands and tourist-focused pop up shops, to a recommended restaurant for dinner.
Dinner
Gyristroula is truly a restaurant with all the local vibes. Situated just a 5 minute walk from Thissio View in the corner of a large square, surrounded by what felt like the heart of Athens. Parents laughing past us with wine in one hand and a child’s sticky ice cream hand in the other. Teenagers break dancing and blasting music. 20 somethings dressed up for a night out. Greek elders huddled around a table drinking something clear and strong.
We were handed giant mugs of wine and consumed their favorite items on the menu. All I remember is the mouth-watering baklava….for this I blame the aforementioned wine pour.
Where To Stay
We stayed at BED in Athens near Monastiraki Square. The hotel has amazing reviews, is in a super central location (especially if you’re taking public transportation from the airport), and offers a comfortable room at a reasonable price. Unfortunately, the neighbors next door wanted to celebrate a break from the COVID lockdown with a DJ until 5AM, so I wouldn’t describe our evening as restful.
Day 2 - Athens
Brunch
With bloodshot eyes and a desperate need for caffeine, we dragged our feet to Six d.o.g.s, where I had my 1st ever freddo cappuccino and never looked back. If you know, you know. And if you don’t, you need to. Trust me. And then we ordered cocktails…Remember the night we had?? Don’t judge. Their cocktail menu was just too inventive to pass up! We also ate food. Avocado toast I think? Who cares. If you ever visit this restaurant (and you should…I swear the food was also delicious), order the freddo cappuccino and report back. Will DM you our address for all thank you gifts.
Explore Agora Park
Walk in the footsteps of Socrates, Aristotle and Plato, enjoy the ancient views, and picture the once bustling civic center of Athens filled with philosophers, merchants and politicians.
Snack Stop
We had one last mission before heading to the airport: Fried feta and wine at a restaurant recommended by our dear expat friends, Dia Tauta. The owner sat us at a table on their lovely patio and took care of us as if we were the most important people to visit that day.
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Day 2 - Mykonos
It was a quick 35 minute flight from Athens to Mykonos on Olympic Air, then a 10 minute cab (3km) to Mykonos Town. We chose Mykonos Town as our home base because I wanted to be able to see as much as possible while Luke worked. Mykonos Town is the perfect place to explore all of the shops, restaurants and white washed streets you see in the iconic photos. It was so much fun to wander around such a famous town in the quiet with only my camera and freddo cappuccino.
Where To Stay
We stayed at the Myconian Inn, a quaint little boutique B&B next to Boni’s Windmill. The price was right, the location was ideal, breakfast was delicious and the host had all the local recs.
Dinner
Our wonderful host sent us to her friend’s restaurant for dinner as most places closed early because of the lack of tourists. After To Maereio, we didn’t eat anywhere our host didn’t encourage.
Day 3 - Mykonos
When I think back on my favorite memories from these weeks away, this day is one of my most treasured. Luke was working while we were in Mykonos so he could take time off in Santorini, which meant I had the day to myself.
What to do in Mykonos Town? Get lost
I walked around Mykonos Town in the morning, wandering the white-washed streets and taking photos until I realized it was lunchtime.
I hiked up to a locals restaurant outside of the touristy area to Oregano Cook & Grill. It is near a popular bar called 180 Sunset Bar, which we didn’t get a chance to check out, but read the view is incredible.
We had been gone for a week and a half at this point, so I walked our laundry over to Snowhite Drycleaning. Which, if you find yourself in Mykonos in need of a dry cleaner, this little lady will scrub them clean, shrink nothing and iron everything, all under 20 euros.
I walked to a little café in the Old Port to take a break from the heat and indulge in (you guessed it) another freddo cappuccino, at Faro Café Bar.
The last area of Mykonos own to explore was the New Port, and I only went there accidentally…Since the New Port is where you catch the ferry to Santorini, I assumed that is where I had to buy the tickets. (You can buy the tickets here. Walking 30 minutes down a narrow road in the blazing sun is unnecessary and you will regret it.)
Luke got off work in time for a sunset dinner and, as you can imagine, I was starving after my escapade around the city. Our host ordered us to spend it at Karavaki Restaurant within the Vencia Boutique Hotel so, we did as we were told and our minds were blown.
Day 4 - Mykonos
I spent the morning with virtual clients then engaged in a workout of my own with a view over the white rooftops before walking into town to grab lunch. I stopped for a freddo cappuccino (are you brainwashed yet?) on my way to pick up the best souvlaki in Mykonos at Sakis.
Dinner
Luke finally got to walk through town with me and see what I had fallen in love with. We walked to Joanna's Nikos Taverna for sunset and a delicious dinner on the beach. Locals prices, wonderful service and a very popular place! Definitely make a reservation.
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Day 5 - Santorini
We took a Seajet ferry 2.5 hours to Santorini on a Wednesday morning. Luke spent the majority of the time dropping important calls on shotty wifi while I messed around with video editing from Croatia.
Where to Stay
There are many different towns to stay in Santorini (Santorini Dave lays it out best), but we chose Oia - The most romantic, picturesque and expensive of them all. Naturally. But everything was so discounted, and this was a major bucket list location, we just couldn’t say no.
Marzizan Caves and Villas
The hotel arranged for a driver to transport us the 35 minutes to Oia for about $40. As he drove his seemingly stolen van up the shockingly narrow switchbacks, he told stories of Santorini that I cannot recall because I was busy watching my life flash before my eyes.
Anywho, we finally arrived at Marizan Caves and Villas in need of a stiff drink and a Xanax, and a large man walked toward us to carry our bags and lead us to the front desk. He was a large, Slovakian man who we later learned is referred to as “The Boy”. And now you know too. Moving on.
The cave villa was unlike any accommodation we’ve ever experience. I honestly can’t describe it in words it was so stunning. No matter where you are staying in Santorini, Oia is known as the place to watch the sunset, and we had a front row seat from our patio. It was incredible.
We spent the rest of the day eating souvlaki and drinking wine on the balcony, catching our 1st Santorini sunset.
Day 6 - Santorini
I spent the 1st half of the day training clients from the cliffside and getting in a band workout of my own. 2nd half was spent laying out at the pool and only moving for Greek food. My kinda day.
Where To Eat
Elinikon
Luke met me for lunch at a little place next to the villa that seemed to be popular with the locals and had a nice view of the windmill.
Lotza
This may be the BEST restaurant in Oia for dinner. The restaurant is known for its sunset view, and normally places like this use their prime location to justify overpriced, mediocre food. Not Lotza! This is family-run with kind and wonderful service, as well as delicious, moderately-priced dishes. You are missing out if you don’t prioritize dinner at Lotza. And you will thank me later for my aggressive recommendation.
Day 7 - Santorini
Professional Photos
We started the day early to meet our photographer at Passaggio, a small café on the edge of town. We passed a few locals outside smoking, drinking iced coffees as we walked in and then joined them a few minutes later (sans cigarettes). Costas breezed up, fashionably late, with his camera gear and a portable changing tent. He charmed the hell out of us, then lead us to all of his favorite places.
Costas was incredible. We were likely the most awkward models he’s ever used and put us completely at ease. It was such a treat, and I honestly can’t recommend this experience enough! This is where to find him: Website & Instagram
Ammoudi Bay
Ammoudi Bay can be reached via the the 200+ step staircase located just below the castle, or a 10 euro taxi that can be arranged by the hotel or one of the restaurants in the bay.
We chose the staircase, which is pretty steep, but comes with a view. It also includes many donkeys…and with many donkeys comes a lot of poop. So I guess just steer clear of that! Hot tip, I know. In all seriousness, the donkeys have become quite a tourist trap and you can pay to ride a donkey up and down the steps.
Lunch at Sunset in Ammoudi
There are quite a few restaurants lining the bay, which was a bit overwhelming. The reviews at Sunset at Ammoudi were the best and they seemed to be the busiest, so that was where we settled in for lunch. We had a table on the water and everything we had was delicious! Can confidently recommend.
We scrambled through the rock path to get to the cliff diving part of the bay. Young locals were lounging, diving and taking full advantage of the lack of tourists. We enjoyed the afternoon swimming, and napping in the sunshine.
Day 8 - Santorini
Luke’s “favorite day of 2020”
Exploring the Island on an ATV
Blue Island Rental dropped off the ATV at 8am then we set off on our route:
Drive south to Fira for beach groceries
Stop at Santo Wines - Was a nice view and the wine was decent, but the atmosphere was very commercial. There are other small, family run wineries that would be a better option. Domaine Sigalas is a good example and closer to Oia.
Enjoy lunch at Alismari on Kamari Beach (black sand beach). There are many restaurants here that allow you to use their sunbeds and umbrellas if you order food and/or beverages. Both the service and food at Alismari were excellent.
Drive down “wine road” to Red Beach. Unfortunately, we didn’t know that you had a bit of a hike to get to the beach, and we wanted to make sure we could get a spot at the lighthouse in time for sunset so we didn’t have time. If you indulge in a catamaran cruise during your stay, you will likely visit this beach, but if you choose the ATV make sure you plan ahead.
Last stop: Akrotiri Lighthouse for the sunset. There is a little food truck at the entrance where we ordered skepasti and brought it out to the cliffs in front of the lighthouse. The sunset was completely unobstructed and magical in every way.
Day 9 - Santorini
Shopping
Oia has so many amazing boutiques. The perfect place to buy jewelry or locally-made leather sandals.
Lunch
Our last Greek salad was consumed at Thalami, overlooking the water. Another great spot with a view!
I will leave you with what I miss most: The many faces of sleepy Greek cats. You’re welcome.
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